Tod Inlet is a busy anchorage in the summer months. The basin has all-weather protection, but the main attraction is nearby Butchart Gardens. The gardens have a dinghy dock that makes for easy landing and access to the spectacular garden display. And boats crowd the waterway on Saturday nights to watch their firework show.
That all-weather protection makes Tod Inlet a lovely, snug winter anchorage. Few boaters are about, although we’ve still never managed to anchor there alone. While the Butchart Gardens fireworks show doesn’t run in the winter, there’s an even better attraction: the Christmas light display. The gardens are lighted at night in the summer, but this pales in comparison. Elaborate displays throughout the park include waterfalls of light and sets depicting each verse of the Twelve Days of Christmas. It’s just amazing. If the Cirque du Soleil folks were asked to produce a light display, you’d expect something like this.
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Entry, anchoring and other notes:
See the Waggoner Cruising Guide for approach and anchoring details. The Butchart Gardens dinghy dock is closed in the winter. This is just as well, because it can be a long cold ride around. To reach the gardens, land instead at Tod Inlet along the north shore. Go north on the trail that runs along the fence behind the washrooms and keep left at any forks. It’s a quarter mile to the Butchart Gardens parking lot exit at Benvenuto Avenue. Walk a short distance up the road to the main gates (see map).
Update: Graham Bell, of Butchart Gardens Public Relations, tells us that that the dinghy dock is in fact open during the winter. Visitors are discouraged from using the dock after dark during the Christmas season, however, because the Japanese Garden is not lit as part of the Christmas display and visitors must wait for an escort to pass through.
Our boat carries 77 gallons of freshwater and we have no water maker. Over the years, we’ve developed a number of techniques to conserve water that allow us to cruise three or four weeks without replenishing. On our summer cruise this year, we added another to the list: an alcohol-based waterless hand sanitizer.
While we’re not hand-washing fanatics, we don’t want to be too lax either. But when we’re in water-conservation mode, proper washing with soap and water consumes far too much water. It’s not just the water used in washing, but also the water wasted in running the tap until the water is hot. We could capture that water as we do for showers, but that’s a pretty serious hassle just for hand-washing. And sometimes we can’t properly wash with soap and water because the furnace isn’t on and we’ve not run the engines for a while, so we simply don’t have hot water. We could boil water, but that is getting back into the serious hassle category.
Waterless hand sanitizers have been popping up in public areas everywhere these days, particularly in hospitals, the workplace and schools. But are they as effective as washing with soap and water? In certain cases, yes, and they have some advantages too.
Alcohol-based hand sanitizers must be approved by the FDC to be sold in the US. The Center for Disease Control includes them as an acceptable alternate form of hand hygiene. In Better: A Surgeon's Notes on Performance, Gawande describes a hospital that dropped its MSRA infection rate to zero through the use of alcohol-based hand gels, among a variety of other practices. Hand gels are particularly effective in hospitals because people are more likely to use them. Proper hand-washing between every patient takes too long and people just won't do it. Atul Gawande notes that hand gels with an alcohol concentration of 50 to 95 percent are more effective at killing germs than hand-washing.
Washing with soap and water doesn’t actually kill germs—the friction of washing pulls germs and dirt from the skin and they are rinsed away with the water. The hotter the water, the more effective the lather and rinse. With hand sanitizers, the rubbing action works the gel into the nooks and crannies on the hands and the alcohol kills germs directly. The germs fall off the hands, and the sanitizer evaporates. Hand sanitizers work more quickly than washing with soap and water, do not promote antimicrobial resistance, and can improve skin condition. Hands that are cracked and dry from repeated washing with soap and water can harbor more germs than healthy ones. Hand sanitizers kill most common germs that are transmitted by touch, but are not effective for removing visible dirt or food-borne pathogens.
We’ve been using Purell, but have also tried Kroger’s product. Although the Kroger product is less expensive, we prefer Purell because it seems to dry a little faster. Both contain 62% ethyl alcohol and should be equally effective. We started off with a 2-fl oz bottle as a tester, and later bought the larger pump bottles.
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Francis Point Marine Park, established in 2000, is a relatively new addition to the BC Parks system. The park takes up about a third of Francis Peninsula, just south of the entrance to Pender Harbour on the Sunshine Coast, and has sweeping views across Malaspina Strait to Texada Island. We visited one winter while at anchor in Gerrans Bay.
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Francis Peninsula, an island at high tide and a peninsula at low tide, was named in 1930. The name was changed in 1945 to Beaver Island after the SS Beaver, then changed back to Francis Peninsula in 1972 to “conform to entrenched local usage.” The local usage of Francis Peninsula wasn’t completely entrenched based on some of the old buildings we saw.
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We followed a wide and easy trail about a quarter mile to Middle Bay. The bay is reasonably sheltered, and kayaks or other portable craft could be carried there to launch and explore the outer coast.
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From there, the trail runs about a half mile along the shoreline to Francis Point, on the southern tip of Francis Peninsula. This trail was more rugged, steep, slippery and muddy than the trail to Middle Bay, but had great views along the way.
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The best view was at Francis Point—we could see south beyond the tip of Texada Island and into the Strait of Georgia. A big winter storm had come through the day before, and Francis Point would have been an exciting place to watch it from. But given we recorded 52-knot storm-force gusts in sheltered Garden Bay, the winds on the outer peninsula shore would have been much higher and that open trail would have felt awfully exposed.
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Entry, anchoring and other notes:
The entrance to the park is less than a mile’s walk from the public dock at the south end of Gerrans Bay.(We anchored southwest of Dusenbury Island, but you can reach Gerrans Bay by dinghy from anywhere in Pender Harbour.) Walk south from the public dock and follow the road as it curves to the right (this is Francis Peninsula Road). After about a quarter mile, look for Merrill Road on the left and follow it a quarter mile to the park entrance.
Approaching the head of Blakely Harbor this weekend, we saw what looked like a rock near where we planned to anchor. It turned out to a small boat, submerged bow-up. It was covered with barnacles and appeared to have been underwater for a while. We guessed that it must have blown in from farther out in the bay. The boat appeared almost neutrally-buoyant—it spun slowly in the current and submerged only slightly as the tide went up.
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The next day, the Bainbridge Island police boat arrived and attached a large orange buoy to it.
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Later that day, Blakely Harbor resident Kim Bottles stopped by. (In his power power cat “Ceol Luaithe”, Kim had helped rescue a sailboat aground in Blakely Harbor earlier that spring.) Kim said he’d watched two boats struggle to raise their anchors the previous weekend. Eventually, up popped the boat we can see now. Apparently, it’s weighed down by chains in the stern. Someone might purposely have sunk it, or more likely those chains are attached to slipped anchors that became entangled in the wreck.
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When we arrived, we had been planning to anchor just about where the wreck was. We’ve already lost an anchor once due to entanglement—we felt lucky to have avoided going through that again. The wreck is reasonably obvious during the day, but would be difficult to see at night without that buoy. Now that we’re off daylight-savings time and the days are getting shorter, we’ll be navigating at night and arriving at our anchorages like this one after dark for the next few months. It’s a good reminder to keep a careful lookout, even in anchorages we frequent.
Elliott Bay Marina is a wonderful place to keep a boat, but docking can be difficult—the fairways are narrow, as are the slips. And the slips are oriented east-west while the winds are typically from the north or the south, so if any wind is blowing, it’s against the side of the boat as we back it in. North winds are worse, because they blow us towards the boat beside us rather than the finger peer. Yesterday morning when we returned to the marina, the winds were blowing 17 knots from the north with gusts to 19.
We had the boat turned perpendicular to the fairway ready to back into the slip. We have no bow thruster so, when there is a crosswind, we need to lean the bow slightly into the wind as we work backwards into slip. I shifted the port engine into reverse and felt the cable break, leaving us without port transmission control. I ran down to the lower helm and, mysteriously, it too broke. Now we have a problem. We’re sideways in the fairway with only a few feet on either end of the boat separating us from collision.
A two-engine boat with only one operating prop sounds easy. You would guess it’s not worse than a single prop boat. But with the prop biased over on one side of the hull, it’s remarkable how poorly the boat responds to the helm and actually turns and, with a strong wind, the boat simply won’t turn into it. Our first focus was keeping away from other boats and to keep the boat centered in the fairway as we gained speed sideways driven by the brisk wind. That done, we starting backing and filling in an attempt to get the boat turned around with limited fore and aft clearance. The boat slowly came around bit by bit and, after 5 or 6 iterations of backing and filling, it did straighten out. By this time many spectators were along either side of the fairway. Once straight in the fairway, with the wind behind us, the boat actually was fairly easy to manage.
We took the boat around to the outside guest dock where there is much more space and landed there to make repairs. We did have a spare transmission shift cable, but the parts connecting it to both the upper helm and lower helm shifters had broken. A quick trip to Fisheries Supply solved that.
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The next challenge was running the new cable. The cable runs on a circuitous route through an incredibly narrow slot between the two windows in the salon. After much effort and WD-40, we finally managed to pull the new cable through, taped to the old cable, and got everything connected up and working again.
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Four hours later, after lunch and repairs, we glided back into our slip. The wind was still brisk and from the north but it’s amazing how much less exciting it is to land with everything operational.
Thinking about it later, we couldn’t figure out why the parts connecting both ends of the throttle cable could have broken, and were concerned we might have a transmission problem. And then we realized—the cable must have seized, causing the fly bridge end to break when we shifted. When I tried shifting down below, that broke the other end.
We’ve had cable failures before. They typically rust up and get stiffer and stiffer but continue to operate. To have a cable fail without warning and lock up so tight the cable ends break off is quite unusual. Yet another argument to keep speed moderate when near other boats in that you could experience an unexpected failure at any time.
At the southern end of Laredo Channel, several bays and waterways indent the shoreline along Princess Royal Island. Some appear on the chart as possible anchorages, but most feel open and exposed. Hague Point Lagoon is a notable exception. The almost land-locked basin has a somewhat tricky entrance, but inside is sheltered anchorage with room for several boats, and a hike with spectacular views.
Read more ….
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Like many Puget Sound boaters, we’ve passed Point No Point dozens of times on our way to and from places north of Seattle. The last time was on a sunny, warm day with calm winds. It was time for lunch, so we decided to stop there. We found good anchoring depths and holding on the south side, and had lunch on deck while watching a variety of vessels pass to our east.
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Most of the land south of the point is either part of the Point No Point Lighthouse and Park or is DNR beach. Woods line the shore, so it’s a private-feeling, nice anchorage. After lunch, we took the dinghy ashore. The wonderful soft-sand beach that ringed the park was popular. People were out walking, fishing, building sandcastles, paddling, sunbathing and throwing sticks for some very wet puppies.
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The Point No Point Light Station, completed in 1879, is among the oldest in the Puget Sound. The lighthouse itself is no longer in service—in 2006 the Coast Guard installed a modern, low-maintenance light—but most of the original buildings and equipment are still in place, including the original fresnel lens. The Friends of Point No Point Lightouse maintain the site and open it to the public. We weren’t allowed up into the lantern room, but we could see the lens from down below.
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While few houses are south of the point, the land to the north is quite built-up. An old 1920’s resort and boat launch, now in disrepair, was partway down the beach. WDFW owns the property and plans to restore the boat launch and possibly the buildings.
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This month James finally became a US citizen, after a nearly three-year delay. We’d both applied in late 2005 and were interviewed in early 2006. I was approved in a couple of months and became a citizen in the summer of 2006. James, however, went into application limbo pending an FBI name check, but eventually was approved as part of a class-action lawsuit.
Our overriding interest in citizenship was the ability to vote, but citizenship actually is required for a number of things in the nautical world. Some boat loans and insurance policies require that a vessel be documented, and some countries allow entry by boat only on documented vessels. Non-citizens, however, cannot document a vessel, nor pilot a documented vessel out of the country. Only citizens are eligible for USCG licenses other than the OUPV (or “6-pack”). And twice we’ve missed opportunities to tour a US navy nuclear submarine because we weren’t citizens.
The Lake Union Boats Afloat Show seminar schedule has just been posted. We’ll be presenting some of our favorite destinations between Victoria and Bella Bella, along with and tips and techniques for improved boating safety and comfort, at 11am on Saturday September 13th. One area we’ll highlight is the Dodwell Group, our name for the group of island off the southern tip of Campbell Island in Queen Charlotte Sound. The Dodwell Group has several good anchorages and is excellent dinghy territory.
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We use vacuum sealing on board for a variety of purposes: extending foodstuff life, protecting valuable mechanical parts from moisture damage, reducing package size and isolating smelly or messy garbage. In the past, we’ve always used 8-inch and 11-inch continuous roll bags. These work well for most applications, but not so well for breads. It’s difficult to seal them properly without crushing. Ideally we’d freeze breads, but our freezer has no space after we’ve loaded it with meats for longer trips.
This year we bought four 6-quart vacuum seal canisters. The canisters are 11 inches tall with an 8.5-inch diameter, the biggest FoodSaver sells. At $25 each, the canisters aren’t cheap, but they look and feel solid, and are attractive enough to sit on a counter if we had the space. We filled the canisters with croissants, pita bread, outdoor buns and small loafs. Opening and resealing the canisters to periodically remove items over the course of several weeks was simple and efficient using the attachment that came with our sealer.
Everything lasted at least 3 times beyond their freshness date. The croissants and outdoor buns lasted particularly well—3 weeks instead of the best-before date of about 4 to 5 days. Moisture seemed to be the main life-reducer rather than staleness. The salty crust on one bread particularly attracted moisture. Next time we might try including a moisture-absorber such as Ever Fresh.
Overall we were pleased with the canisters and likely will buy some different sizes for storing dry goods and perhaps for marinating. We also liked the fact the canisters are reusable, more so than the bags, so are more environmentally-friendly.
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