Larger
Go current

Recent log entries

More ...

 Sunday, March 01, 2009

  

Anyone who’s written about Seymour and Belize Inlets says that Alison Sound, off Belize Inlet, is the most beautiful spot here. We agree. Several waterfalls gush from the north shore en route, and the entrance to the sound itself is striking. A massive slide has scoured a huge section of shoreline. Kilometer-high mountains soar above a waterway that narrows to a channel less than 100 meters wide.  Just before the narrows, a 150-meter sheer, black cliff rears along the north shore; scattered trees cling impossibly to fissures in the surface.  Beyond the narrows, a 500-meter cone juts skyward.

Two impressive pictographs are painted on north shore bluffs here, one just outside the entrance, and the other in a crevice directly west of Summers Bay. Provincial archaeologists believe that both may commemorate an 1868 Native attack on the trading vessel Thornton and a retaliatory British gunboat shelling of the settlement at Village Cove in Mereworth Sound.

We anchored at Alison Sound’s head, where the scenery rivaled Princess Louisa Inlet. Waterfalls spilled down 1000-meter slopes. The Waump Creek and another unnamed one empty into lush lowlands below towering black cliffs, with snow-capped peaks visible through the delta. The creeks were wonderful kayak territory. The flora and fauna were thick and healthy, and those big cliffs stood above us at every turn.

For more detail on Alison Sound, directions and anchoring advice, see Chapter Ten, Seymour Inlet, in Cruising the Secret Coast.

   
 

 

 

Sunday, March 01, 2009 2:04:02 PM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)  #    Comments [0] - Trackback
Secret Coast
 Sunday, February 15, 2009

Early this morning the commercial ship Amazon River arrived in Seattle from China. Part of the Amazon River's cargo was a cross-section of the current Nordhavn line: a 43, a 52, and a 68. The 52 was the first Nordhavn 52 in what I fully expect will be a very successful new line of Nordhavns. It was fun to see it on its inaugural US sailing.

  

The Nordhavn 68 in no-load form displaces 156 thousand pounds so its considerably heavier than the standard container that these cranes normally host off deck or from below. What follows is the launching of the 68 but all three followed the same procedure. The crane lowered four chains that are attached to the cradle that mounts the boat to the deck. The entire boat and cradle assembly is then carefully raised, shifted out beyond the ship to the water, and then lowered to the water.  As the boat lands in the water, a small craft drops off a couple of crew members. As they arrive on the boat, they first check to ensure the boat is watertight and safe, then inspect the mechanical systems before starting the boat.  With the engine running and the boat safe to sail, the crane lowers it another few feet allowing the boat to float off the cradle.  Then the boat is  backed free of the cradle and sailed to the commissioning port.  In this case, Elliott Bay Marina in Seattle.

   
 

   
 

All three vessels will be commissioned by Emerald Harbor Marine under the supervision of PAE project managers. We have a slip in Elliott Bay so we’ll be seeing lots of these three boats as we go back and forth.

 

Sunday, February 15, 2009 6:12:23 PM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)  #    Comments [8] - Trackback
Nordhavn
 Sunday, February 08, 2009

Although bald eagles are among the largest birds we see on the coast, often we see gulls and other much smaller birds chasing eagles through the sky or tormenting them on a tree branch. This seems curious, given the difference in size. While eagles are excellent hunters, according to Bald Eagles: Their Life and Behavior in North America they are not above scavenging for their meals, or stealing food from other birds or preying on them. So to ward of threats to themselves and their young, smaller birds often harass eagles and other birds of prey. The larger birds mostly ignore these attacks, rarely fighting back. The eagle’s behaviour, from scavenging, to stealing food, to ignoring attacks, led Benjamin Franklin to oppose their choice for America’s seal:

 

I wish that the bald eagle had not been chosen as the representative of our country; he is a bird of bad moral character; he does not get his living honestly; you may have seen him perched on some dead tree; where, too lazy to fish for himself, he watches the labor of the fishing-hawk; and when that diligent bird has at length taken a fish, and is bearing it to its nest for the support of his mate and young ones, the bald eagle pursues him and takes it from him. . . .  Besides he is a rank coward; the little kingbird, not bigger than a sparrow, attacks him boldly and drives him out of the district. He is therefore by no means a proper emblem for the brave and honest.  

 

-- Benjamin Franklin in a letter to his daughter Sarah Bache

 

Occasionally, it would seem, the eagle doesn’t always ignore the attacks. One time while out in the dinghy, we started seeing white feathers massed on the water surface. A short distance away, we came across an eagle, tearing into what was left of a seagull clutched in its talons. That probably was just one taunt too many.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday, February 08, 2009 2:52:17 PM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)  #    Comments [2] - Trackback
On the Water
 Tuesday, January 27, 2009
We've cruised as far north as the Broughtons in winter, but this year's winter cruise to the Gulf Islands (map of area) was colder, with more snow and stronger winds, than any other. This was the first time we've had to actually shovel the boat off. The cold weather gave our furnace a workout, but created some beautiful scenery. Here are some highlights from the trip. (Click on the images below to enlarge.)

The first of the snow came while we were anchored in Cadboro Bay. We had slipped across along the southern end of the San Juan Islands from Oak Harbor following a big storm, and ended up storm-bound there for three nights. 40-knot northerly gusts boomed through the anchorage, while whitecaps churned through Haro Strait.
We didn't see Caddy while we were there, just the 100-foot -replica in Gyro Park.
Before stopping at Cadboro Bay, we'd fueled at Oak Bay and filled two five-gallon buckets for reserve water. But the water promptly froze solid, and didn't melt until nearly the end of the trip. So much for a reserve.
At Genoa Bay, we followed footsteps through the snow to the top of Mount Tzouhalem for a view to snow-covered Mount Maxwell on Saltspring Island.
Here's another view of Mount Maxwell, this time from The Brig's dinghy dock at the northwest corner of Maple Bay. We moored there for the night and watched Monday Night Football over dinner at the pub. The food is excellent and the pub deck has sweeping views across Maple Bay and Sansum Narrows.
We visited Butchart Gardens Christmas Light Display during a blizzard. The snow added another dimension to the scene.
  Another load of snow fell while we were anchored at Preedy Harbor. 

The BC Ferries vessels always look shipshape, but they looked even better against a white backdrop.
While anchored in Ladysmith, the temperature hit -19C (-22F), the coldest on the B.C. coast. Victoria was -7C, Vancouver was -14C, Whistler was -18C, Port Hardy was -4C, and Prince Rupert was -11C. Sea smoke drifted across the water and everything on deck was frozen over.
Snow was piled up so high in Ganges that it felt more like Ottawa. BC Hydro had been busy working on replacing a large transformer that had caught fire. It looked a real mess and a big job to replace. In the picture on the right, they are using a crane to pull new cables through (the new cables are draped over the snow).
  These are our two favorite pictures of the trip. Both were taken at anchor off Ganges the same cold morning. The bright sun and the sea smoke makes the Tyee picture look almost like a painting.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009 8:16:24 PM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)  #    Comments [0] - Trackback
On the Water
 Sunday, January 11, 2009

The Seattle Boat Show seminar schedule is now posted. We’ll be presenting some of our favorite destinations between Victoria and Bella Bella, along with and tips and techniques for improved boating safety and comfort, at 1pm on Saturday January 24th. And we’ll be signing copies of Cruising the Secret Coast, our Waggoner sister publication, at the Armchair Sailor booth from 3-5pm on Saturday the 24th and Saturday the 31st.

One area we’ll highlight is Drury Inlet, our favorite destination in the Broughtons. Part of Drury Inlet’s attraction is ruins from an entire era of coastal logging, including springboard- scarred stumps, a large, well-preserved steam donkey, 1920s logging trucks, and a logging railway. Logging roads—both old and new—extend inland to tranquil lakes and to mountain ridges with wonderful saltwater views. Throughout these woods, contemporary independent loggers meld the past with the present as they salvage cedar from century-old stumps.

 

 

Sunday, January 11, 2009 3:20:20 PM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)  #    Comments [0] - Trackback
Secret Coast

Our cruising guide, Waggoner sister publication Cruising the Secret Coast, is available at local bookstores and online. Click image below for book and ordering information.

Archive
<March 2009>
SunMonTueWedThuFriSat
22232425262728
1234567
891011121314
15161718192021
22232425262728
2930311234

Member Login
All Content © 2012, James & Jennifer Hamilton
Theme created by Christoph De Baene / Modified 2007.10.28 by James Hamilton / Modified 2011.09.17 by Jennifer Hamilton